Ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C and possesses all of the attributes of ascorbic acid. It is more easily absorbed by the body and can be stored in the membranes of the cells until needed. It is also a powerful antioxidant, the same as vitamin C. It also takes part in the biochemistry of the production of collagen and coAscorbyl palmitate also acts as an anti-inflammatory with certain conditions, such as psoriasis where topical application helped to reduce the extent of the lesions. Ascorbyl palmitate is the most widely used fat-soluble derivative of vitamin C in skin care. It is nonirritating and more stable than vitamin C. Furthermore, ascorbyl palmitate is a fat-soluble antioxidant and is at least as effective as vitamin E in protecting the skin from lipid peroxidation (a key type of free radical damage in the skin). Numerous skin care products containing ascorbyl palmitate are commercially available.
Lauric acid is the main acid in coconut oil and in palm kernel oil (not to be confused with palm oil), and is believed to have antimicrobial properties. It is also found in human milk (5.8% of total fat), cow’s milk (2.2%), and goat’s milk (4.5%).[
When lauric acid is present in the body, it is converted into monolaurin, a monoglyceride compound which exhibits antiviral, antimicrobial, antiprotozoal and antifungal properties. It acts by disrupting the lipid membranes in organisms like fungus, bacteria and viruses, thus destroying them. The compound monolaurin is an effective treatment for Candida albicans and fungal infections like ringworm and athlete’s foot.
L-ascorbic acid can be used to boost collagen synthesis. Also, it should be more stable and less irritating than vitamin C. So far, two compounds have found their way into the broad skin care market: ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. A few other highly promising derivatives are on the horizon.
Linoleic acid, the proper name for is: allcis-w6,9-octadecadienoic acid, and is required for maintaining the integrity of cellular membranes. linoleic acid applied topically metabolizes into ceramides and unsaturated omega-hydroxy fatty acids, restoring the moisture and barrier-integrity of the skin. Linoleic acid helps relieve flaky, itchy, or rough skin and maintain smooth, moist skin. A tablespoon of linoleic acid-rich foods or oils may be added on a daily basis to help improve and moisturize skin. Linoleic acid may also help with skin disorders such as atopic eczema.
Linoleic acid deficiencies include: eczema-like skin eruptions, conLinoleic acid is also a major component of dermal ceramides, the binding ‘mortars’ between cells that provide both skin strength and barrier function.28,29. A study found that essential fatty acid-deficient skin has a weakened water-retaining barrier and that Fatty Acids , specifically linoleic acid and gamma linoleic acid, are required for the skin to retain moisture, development of healthy skin and cell membranes, reducing puffiness and swelling. Science has found that linoleic acid is necessary to the enzymatic activity that develops skin cells into proper water-maintaining barriers.24 A deficiency of linoleic acid is characteristic of dry skin.25 Studies have found that a deficiency of linoleic acid is linked to conditions of poor skin such as acne.26 when applied topically, these two compounds reduce trans-epidermal water loss.
Omega 3 & 6 fatty acids have been found not only to reduce the damage and aging caused by sunlight, but when applied to the skin, also improve collagen and the elastin fibers in the skin. Omega 3 and 6 oils have also proven to be successful in the treatment of psoriasis as well as eczemas. Although Omega oils are well know for the beneficial effect they have on your health when taken in supplement form, the topical application of these polyunsaturated fatty acids to the skin also offer great benefit – not only helping to moisturize the skin, but also helping to reduce inflammation and to strengthen the skin. These acids contribute actively to the development of the skin’s outer layer. They thus help promote the elasticity of the skin, as well as having an “anti-aging” effect on dry, damaged skin, in particular by ensuring a partial improvement of its structure.
Myristic acid, also called tetradecanoic acid, is a common saturated fatty acid with the molecular formula CH3(CH2)12COOH found in dairy products. Myristic acid links together the proteins that form the skin’s protective outer layer. It also regulates the skin cell regeneration, which prevents over active scaling. Myristic acid is often added co-translationally to an N-terminal glycine as a lipid anchor in biomembranes.
The ester isopropyl myristate is used in cosmetic and topical medicinal preparations where good absorption through the skin is desired.
Margaric Acid, Hydrates skin and reduces redness, prevents transepidermal water loss, Helps heal skin tissue, Absorbs quickly. It is known to be simply an intimate mixture of stearic and palmitic acids.